Flavors to Savor
Liquid Apple: Last Chance Pub and Cider Mill
The Last Chance and Cider Mill is not only the apple of my eye but also of my palate and spirit. My palate always smiles at the ciders crafted by head cidermaker Travis Charbonneau, whose liquid apples capture the essence of freshly picked fruit in every sip.
My eyes find comfort in the soaring industrial space that once housed United Glass, where a glossy, green-tiled fireplace anchors the dining room. My spirit delights in gathering with friends around wooden tables surrounded by playful lime-green metal chairs. And the fun doesn't stop there. How can I resist smiling at ciders and beers with names like Full Montana, Hoppotamus, and Pearfection? They embody the whimsy that makes every visit feel like a celebration.
“The Full Montana is a play on The Full Monty movie,” Travis says of the cider made with Montana-sourced apples. “Hoppotamus comes from the song ‘Hip Hoppopotamus’ from the band Flight of the Conchords.” The cider fermented with apples and sweetened with juice from Oregon pears naturally took on the name Pearfection.
The high ceilings at Last Chance Pub and Cider let my mind breathe. On one side, expansive windows frame the blur of cars gliding along Montana Avenue. On the other, they offer a glimpse into the cidery, where apples are transformed into something extraordinary. In the fall, when the presses are humming and the cidery is in full production, the air blossoms with the sweet-tart perfume of freshly pressed apples.
Travis Charbonneau rejoined the team as head cidermaker a year after Last Chance Pub and Cider was opened in 2016 by founder and brewer Sam Hoffman. After pressing apples for six months, Travis decided to “move around the country for a while,” drawing on his brewing background and experience gained in Michigan — a state known for its abundant apple production. There, he worked at two breweries before moving to Denver, where he took the helm of the Cheluna Brewing Co. When Sam reached out and asked him to return to Billings to help craft cider, Travis brought with him a wealth of brewing knowledge and a fresh perspective.
The Newton Pippin cider is my all-time favorite sip at Last Chance. The Newton Pippin is an heirloom apple and was a favorite of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, who grew it in their personal orchards. This green-skinned apple with white flesh is one of the few varieties that can stand on its own as a single varietal, its tartness balanced with just enough sweetness.
“Personally, we do tend to go for higher malic acid, higher acid content, which makes for a little astringency, but that’s what you think of when you bite into an apple,” Travis says.
On this night, after moseying up to the counter, I decide to try one of the Mighty Range Cocktails — a Margarita made with Newton Pippin cider, house-made triple sec, lime juice and simple syrup, served over ice in a salt-rimmed glass. I smile as I imagine myself sitting beneath an apple tree in Mexico, sombrero perched on my head, while an ocean breeze brushes across my face. With my first sip, the familiar flavors of sweet, sour and salty emerge, but it is the essence of apple that anchors the drink.
“We are making margaritas and our other mixed drinks to increase the quality of the mixed-drink options in the market. We use real fruit and ingredients,” Travis says.
An order of Bacon Fried Brussels Sprouts makes the perfect pairing with the Margarita. I find it difficult to stop savoring the sprouts tossed with sweet, smoky bacon, maple syrup and generous chunks of Granny Smith apples, all finished with sunflower seed crumbs and a spicy chipotle-fennel aioli. The combination of flavors creates a delightful balance of richness, sweetness, and heat in every bite.
I walk down the stairs, stepping onto Montana Avenue. As I pull my jacket closer around my shoulders on this fall evening, my palate and spirit smile from savoring the bounty of the season inside Last Chance Pub and Cider Mill.
